Could a significant shake-up be on the horizon for the iconic Sergio Rossi brand? Whispers from industry insiders suggest that Paul Andrew, the designer brought in to inject new life into the storied Italian footwear house, might be on his way out. This news comes as a surprise, given the buzz his creations have generated.
When Paul Andrew took the helm at Sergio Rossi in July 2024, under the ownership of the Lanvin Group, the mission was clear: to revitalize a brand steeped in heritage while pushing it into a contemporary, bold new era. And it seems he's been doing just that! Andrew has artfully blended the brand's rich history with modern sensibilities. Think of his reimagining of Sergio Rossi’s signature cone heels, a distinctive pyramid-like shape, or his use of eel skin, a material the founder himself favored in the 1990s, cleverly sourced from deadstock. He's even paid homage to the founder's ingenious architectural arch designs.
Andrew’s debut collection for Sergio Rossi, unveiled in February 2025, was met with enthusiasm. He spoke passionately about the brand's impressive factory and extensive archive located in San Mauro Pascoli, a renowned center for Italian shoemaking.
But here's where it gets complex... According to market intelligence, the Lanvin Group is reportedly looking to sell this very factory. This facility, which was modernized by Kering (and previously, the Gucci Group) in the early 2000s, is said to be acquired by Massimo and Sabrina Bonini. These two are the power players behind the Milan-based Massimo Bonini, a leading force in footwear and handbag development and wholesale. Their significant contributions to the industry were recognized when they were inducted into the Hall of Fame at the 39th annual FN Achievement Awards in 2025.
For those keeping track, Paul Andrew is no stranger to the fashion world. He launched his own successful namesake label in 2013 and also held the creative director position at Ferragamo, a tenure that concluded in 2021.
The Lanvin Group, which was formerly known as Fosun Fashion Group, boasts a diverse portfolio. Beyond Sergio Rossi, they also own the Lanvin brand, the Austrian hosiery expert Wolford, the Italian menswear company Caruso, and the American fashion label St. John. The group is publicly traded on Wall Street. Their acquisition of Sergio Rossi in 2021 was from Absolute Luxury Holding Srl, a subsidiary of the investment firm Investindustrial. Investindustrial itself had purchased the brand from Kering back in December 2015.
And this is the part most people miss... The Lanvin Group has been facing financial headwinds. In 2024, their revenues saw a significant dip of 23 percent, totaling 329 million euros. Their losses also widened considerably, reaching 189.3 million euros compared to 146.3 million euros the previous year. Adjusted losses before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization also increased, standing at $92.3 million from $64.2 million. These financial pressures have fueled ongoing speculation about potential sales of their fashion assets.
It's worth remembering the legacy of Sergio Rossi himself, who passed away in 2020 at the age of 84. He was a true legend in the footwear industry, building one of Italy's most revered luxury shoe brands and inspiring countless designers, including his son, Gianvito. Rossi began his journey in the 1950s and officially launched his namesake brand in 1968. Throughout his career, he also collaborated with esteemed fashion houses like Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, and Azzedine Alaïa, and is credited with creating iconic styles such as the Opanca sandal.
So, what does this potential departure mean for the future of Sergio Rossi? Is this a sign of a new direction for the brand, or a difficult transition? What are your thoughts on the impact of these ownership and creative shifts on luxury fashion houses? Share your opinions in the comments below!
